Why we stopped booking five-star ryokans
Stars don't travel well to Kyoto. After eleven years of ryokan stays, we'd rather tell you about the two-room place in Kibune where the host still cooks the kaiseki herself.
Long reads, short guides, the occasional uncomfortable opinion. Written by the people who actually show up in-country.
Stars don't travel well to Kyoto. After eleven years of ryokan stays, we'd rather tell you about the two-room place in Kibune where the host still cooks the kaiseki herself.
Cusco, Shangri-La, Leh. The single biggest reason guests cut a trip short isn't weather or stomach — it's altitude. Here's exactly what we do on day zero through day four.
What the gear lists don't tell you: it's not the wind, it's how quickly the wind ends a conversation. Some unglamorous notes from the W-trek in shoulder season.
We interview six candidates per city. We keep maybe one. Here are the questions that do the actual filtering — and the two that never work.
On the fourth night in the Erg Chigaga, our camp went quiet. Nobody had told the guests it was coming, and nobody complained.
Seven courses, no menu, and a chef who decides what you eat. Here's how to read the room without speaking a word of Japanese.
We build itineraries for a living, and we're telling you to tear yours up on day three. Here's why the best trips always start with a loose premise.
The dry season photos are all over Instagram. But the short rains in November bring something else entirely — a stillness, a green, and a predator-to-tourist ratio that will ruin you.
Not every overwater bungalow is what the brochure shows. We've stayed in forty-two of them across the Maldives and French Polynesia. Here are the six worth the price.
We've booked a lot of overnight trains lately. Not because they're cheaper (they're not), but because the act of waking up somewhere new does something to you that flying never does.